In a previous article, we described how to build your own aeroponic system for about $35. Since we'll need a light stand to go with it, I thought that it would make a good follow-up article.
Light Stands are a necessity when you're doing indoor hydroponic gardening. They serve as a way to support your lighting system, and also provide you a structure, should you need to support the plants themselves. I really like PVC for making Light Stands. It's inexpensive, readily available, and easy to use. For most applications, I recommend using 1" PVC (PVC runs larger than it's stated size. 1" PVC is actually closer to 1 1/2" in diameter).
I recommend building a cage-style Light Stand, as they are easy to assemble and are quite stable. The Light Stand that I built was designed to accommodate a HydroFarm Radient reflector (which is about 22" square). If you are using a larger reflector, you might want to adjust your dimensions accordingly.
Materials Required:
- 1" PVC Pipe, 10' Pieces (5)
- 1" PVC Tees (12)
- 1" PVC Elbows (10)
- 2" Steel Rings (2)
- Chain (6')
- Climbing Clips, Recommended (2)
If you want to build the Light Stand you see in the picture, you'll want to cut these pieces of PVC:
- 36" (6)
- 31 1/2" (2)
- 22" (8)
- 10 1/4" (6)
- 3" (6)
Typically, PVC is sold in 10' sections. If you shop at Home Depot or Lowes, they will usually have mitre-boxes and saws near the moulding. If you're determined, you can do all your cutting before leaving the store. I frequently do some cutting at the store, if just to fit things in the car more easily.
If you want to get the most of the materials that you purchase, I recommend cutting it in the following manner:
- Piece 1: 36" x 3, 10 1/4" x 1
- Piece 2: 36" x 3, 10 1/4" x 1
- Piece 3: 31 1/2" x 2, 22" x 2, 10 1/4" x 1
- Piece 4: 22" x 5, 3" x 3
- Piece 5: 22" x 1, 10 1/4" x 3, 3" x 3
Assembling the Light Stand is actually pretty easy. PVC will fit together quickly and easily, without tools required. Although you could solvent-weld the pieces together, I usually don't bother with it. If I'm planning a project that will bear a lot of weight, I will drill straight-through a joint, then secure it with a machine screw and wing nut.
Start with the base. You'll be using 22" pieces. The "front" and "back" will be sitting squarely on the floor. The "sides" are elevated slightly, as they are connected via tees for stability. When connecting the tees to the elbows, use the short 3" pieces as connectors.
Your lower "vertical" sections are all 36" in length. In the "middle", I connected three of the four sides for stability. Although it's difficult to see in the picture, all sides except the "front" are tied together using tees. Once you've tied everything together, the "back" will be taller than the front (this is why we have the shorter 31 1/2" sections ready). When you're all done, put together the top, and you're all set.
I prefer to use 2" steel rights to attach the chain to the top of the frame. I use climbing clips to make it more adjustable (so I can move the lights as the plants grow). Feel free to adjust at your discretion.
Depending on your local prices, the estimated cost of this project is between $25 - $30.